Meeting His Highness

The meeting with the King was scheduled for the afternoon, so in the morning we decided to head to Point-St-George, an idyllic riverside village with a manatee watching platform. But we had to head for the less interesting fishing village of Elinke as there were no taxis heading to St George that morning, and we had to get back for our rendezvous with the King! Turns out that Elinke was only a few more kilometres from where we watched the impromptu wrestling the other day.

When I say its a fishing village, thats it. Nothing else. Well there was a big treen (took a few pics) bar that, nothing! Ended up sorting backpack out for the next week before going to wait at our campenment for Charles around fourish. The rain had been going on for about an hour - second day on the trot in the dry season - and it was nearer 5pm when Charles arrived. We wandered through his village in a short cut to the gare routiere. Next door was the King's headquarters. We'd already walked past his house, which he shares with his several wives.

We waited over the road, while Charles confirmed our appointment. He came back, collected us and showed us into a small clearing the other side of a tall group of bushes. We waited there for a little while, before a man came out to say that the King was not ready until 6pm. Of course this is no problem - the King can choose when he wants to see people and not! It's his perogative! We had a quick drink at the bar in the gare routiere, returning at just before six.

I felt pretty nervous, truth be told, as the King came out to meet us in the small clearing - us sitting on a log on one side, and His Highness on the other, along with his assistant, holding umbrellas up. He spoke only in native Wolof, with Charles translating into French for us. The King was about 60 years old, barefoot in the mud, dressed in a long red tunic with a collar, and a

We asked him a load of questions ranging from does he get a holiday (laughter, and an explanation of how much time his job takes up), how big a family does he have (three wives and 18 kids) and what he thinks of the current situation in Cassamance re: the rebels/seeing Cassamance as a separate country. For the last question, the King went into some detail, explaining that he looked after the region, and sorted any disputes between people in villages - his word was final. He also mentioned that the Govt were in control of the whole country and that he just overlooked West Cassamance (Ossuyeh to Cap Skiring on the coast).

Other questions included education ("Important for the children, but they also should learn about tradition and skills") and what he thinks of tourism in the area ("Also important, but as long as they are respectful"). Took a couple of photos and thanked him for everything, bowing as we did so!

We paid a 10,000 CFA donation out of respect (also because we were told to) and tipped Charles for the past three days and also for arranging the meet. Well worth it though. Story to tell 'n' all!