To Ziguinchor!

After a good night's sleep (sunburn does that to a man), we got up at 7am and walked to the jetty to start the long journey out of the Gambia to Southern Senegal. Naturally Marcos was awake and waiting, we thought we'd outfoxed him. The previous evening he'd given ius the old sob story about his son needing milk from the shop. We went to buy some for him and the dried milk powder was pretty expensive!

Anyway, bought that and thought that was the end of him. But no, he follows us in the small ferry across the river to the mainland. Got on a huge bus (like American school buses but a hideous shade of green). Eventually waved Marcos off from the bus. Then at the next stop a live goat was picked up and strapped to the roof. Africa Style!

Slept most of the way along the really good road to Farafeni before getting a sept-place (seven seater Peugot) to Soma, where we had to cross the River Gambia. The driver wanted 1,500 Dalasis each: an absolute con and we ended up paying 75 Dalasis each. Cheeky. Got to Soma and were hassled as we got out of the car. Bags were collected from the roof where they were tied on by an aged piece of twine and we paid the 5 Dalasi for the ferry crossing.

On the ferry we got chatting to a friendly guy who was in the sept-place. He had short dreads and wanted to help us find a minivan to Ziguinchor on the other side of the river. Alarm bells ring, but he was one of quite a few people we've met who honestly do want to help out for nothing more than being a good Samaritan. Seems that the 'rip off culture' prevalent across Asia has yet to reach African shores; long may that continue.

Found a minivan, and after some heavy French bartering on the ferry (ta Dree, but I kind of kept up) we'd sorted a place. Squashed in on the south side of the river, our driver put the pedal to the metal and we were soon flying over potholes with some painful sounds came from underneath the van. Therefore we stopped for half an hour at a mechanics while they got underneath to sort something out. Slamming it into first gear, on the seventh attempt, we were once again under way.

Then we had a properly good breakdown. Not good for us, I mean, in a 'textbook-breakdown' kind of way. Motor struggles, jumps a bit, then dies as we meander to the roadside. Sighs all round the van, and the driver has to phone for another van. From where, we had no idea!

So this was 4pm, sun was still burning hot, and we were stranded on a particularly dangerous stretch of road. In the Cassamance area (Southern Senegal) there are a few problems with rebels who wish to be a separate country - bombs, ambushes, grenade attacks etc - but they have never targeted civilians or tourists. Howevere, the piece of road we were stuck on had a soldier patrolling a check point, and a group of soldiers in a camp back from the road. This was, as we later learnt, the most dangerous stretch of road in Senegal. Attacks were regular and dusk was falling... grand!

Luckily another van passed after an hour's wait and we jumped on that one. We were saved! This driver was far more cautious, and we made it to Ziguinchor ('Zig' hereafter) in pretty good time - what a long day!