First thoughts of Ghana

Getting back from Teibelè to Po so that we could cross the border was always going to be a hassle, especially as when we got to the crossroads at the village there were no cars or vans to be seen. After a wait of a few hours (punctuated by breakfast, our inability to order two more teas and a few games of cards) we got picked up by a minivan returning to Po. It FLEW along the road back; all we could see was a cloud of red in our wake. We were particularly worried as our bags were just thrown into the roof rack. Luckily we arrived in one piece with all our luggage, and headed for the various bus companies to check availability on any of the big buses. Unfortunately none of them ran today and so we had to organise a private taxi to the border, rather than a big bus all the way to Tamale (closest town in Ghana).

We bumped into our old 'friend' who dropped us off the day before, but we sent him on his way. Lost out on our business for being a numpty before. Got into a taxi for 5000 CFA together and the driver said he would be going to Paga, a small village 2km over the border in Ghana. But, as suspected, he dropped us off at the border and said that it was Paga - ironically standing underneath a huge sign saying "Paga - 1.5km". We paid him less than we'd agreed and headed to get our Ghanaian visas stamped.

This was slightly more complicated than it should have been - every one of the border guards in the office wanted to put their hands on our passports, and we were passed pillar to post for about 20 minutes. Eventually got through and were asked for our yellow fever certificate; strange as this was the first country on our whole trip that had asked for it! There were no taxis on the other side of the border and so we had to walk (uphill) to Paga. We were pretty shattered, as the heat must've close to 40°C, and got a taxi to the next town along, where we'd have to get another taxi to the NEXT town where we could apparently get a bus. Easy. Before we left Barney changed up some of our money from CFA to Ghanaian Cedis. Changing currency is always a bit of a pain, but even more so as Ghana had devalued their cedis a few years before and now there were confusions between 'old' and 'new' cedis.

After a couple of taxi journeys, and a break inbetween to sample Fan Milks for the first time (bags of frozen chocolate or vanilla ice cream/strawberry yoghurt), we arrived in Bolgatanga to catch a bus. We bought more Fan Milks (soooooooo good - beginnings of an addiction), went to the worst toilet in the world (I won't describe it, but it was worse than that one in 'Trainspotting') and got on a very cramped bus after being overcharged baggage by an aggressive bus conductor. The whole bus seemed against the guy as we got on - leaning out of the windows and shouting at him, so that made us feel better. Eventually got moving and had to get a woman sitting next to me to help us buy 'PUUUUUUUUUUUUUHHHHH WWWWAAATTTTTAAAA' ('pure water' - sachets of chlorinated, freezing cold water for about 2.5 English pennies, which are sold everywhere, usually on the heads of small girls by the side of the road).

The journey was boiling in the bus, and spent most of it looking out of the window, or falling asleep/passing out on the poor guy's shoulder next to me! Out of the window, as we got closer to Tamale, we saw lots of advertising for mobile networks including buildings painted in bright Vodaphone red, MTN yellow or Tigo blue. Shockingly we saw some round mud huts painted in these vile colours. What is the world coming to?! But Tamale was worse - banners, flyers, posters, cars, buildings, walls, buses, everything was sponsored by some phone company. This carried on throughout Ghana, and I think we got used to it.

Chose Central Guesthouse, because we only wanted a day's stopover before catching the bus to Molè National Park. Unfortunately, it was a bit of a hole. Firstly, the guys rudely demanded all the money up front and so we had to go and change our travellers cheques into Cedis that afternoon. Secondly, there were massive cockroaches. Thirdly, it was a brothel. There were clients and workers around all night, and mood lighting in the rooms (a special light switch hung down by the head of the bed, so that the red (obviously) light could be turned off whenever they wanted). Great.

We had a good meal overlooking the main street in Tamale, and passing more prostitutes on our way back in, locked the door and played cards. Dree lost and had to eat a piece of revolting 'soap' cake that Barney had bought the day before! We left early the next morning, after Barney had dodged the cockroaches that night, and witnessed a prostitute relieve herself in the alley outside our room. Nice place.