Homeless for Christmas?

We headed to the Elmina bypass road early in the morning and our taxi driver kindly helped us flag down a tro-tro going to Sekondi, the closest city to the beaches. We climbed in and saw our stuff get stuffed in under a dozen fish bowls that we had seen the day before (thankfully not full), and the boot was left open and precariously tied on with rope.

Made it in one piece to Sekondi where we got another tro-tro from another station to Agona - the crossroads town closest to the beaches. We tried to check the net for any other replies about Christmas accommodation, before we headed to the beach, but the man said it wasn't working. We were about to head off when we noticed that they were watching Youtube videos! Typical Ghanaian service. We hiked to the bus station and found one going our way. The annoying thing about being on minibuses is drivers trying to rip you off because you are a tourist, or overcharge you for your rucksack. These jokers are smiling as they lie to you, and are supposedly good Christians (it's plastered all over their cars). We eventually only paid the local price for the journey and headed off. After a few Fan Milks....

Our driver was an utter idiot, driving really fast over some speed humps, and the boot flew open. Kez's bag went bouncing into the middle of a junction, making cars skid around it. We shouted at him to stop, which he eventually did, but a taxi passenger had skilfully scooped up the bag and driven onto a safe stopping point. We thought that was the last we'd see of the bag, but the kind passenger gave it back a few seconds later. We shouted at the driver to tie on the boot properly (as we'd paid separately for the bags), but he was grinning all the way through it.

Five minutes down the road, over another speed hump too quickly and the boot flies open again. Poor Kez's bag goes cartwheeling down the road and we start shouting at the driver again. After that Kez and Dree kept their bags on their laps; mine and B-dogs were safely under the seats. We hopped out at Agona (no tip?) and got into a taxi to Busua - a small fishing village right on the beach, with a few potential places to stay over Christmas.

The taxi was a bargain at only 60 pesewas, about 30p, and we stopped for a drink in a bar called 'Swingers Place' before deciding on guesthouses to check out. We took it in turns to go and check places out, but everywhere was full - should have booked! Me and Dree even looked at some places that looked expensive; the first was $80 per night, and the second one was a five-star complex with pool and conference centre. The 'mattress only' option was $20 alone. Our daily budget is about that!

Barney and Kez took the next shift and checked a few more places out and eventually returned with good news. They'd booked a little hut right on the beach for about fifteen pounds a night between us all! It all sounded great, and the place was called Black Mamba. The only problem was the guy they spoke to was a high rasta. At least we weren't homeless for the holiday period. Let's hope the Rasta remembers!

We ate at a small place called Nana's, a character in himself, whose little shack had writing on all the walls from happy customers congratulating on great food. They were from all over the world and so we were expecting great things! The food was pretty good - really nice spicy jollof rice and fresh fish, so fresh that we had to give him an advance to buy it from the fishermen on the beach!

We decided to head to Green Turtle Bay, the resort that was raved about, but full over the holidays. It was early enough in the day to be turned away but we thought we'd give it a shot. It sounded amazing in the book. After a steep and bumpy tro tro ride, we arrived and actually met the owners Steve and Tom - two Brits. The place was amazing: tiny little huts, good restaurant and bar (Happy Hour Gin and Tonics!), and a gorgeous beach only yards away.

We checked into a room for one night, had to get an extra mattress, and the guys informed us that we would have to move into tents for the next night and then unfortunately move out. Didn't worry us at that point - we had a beach for the first time in a few months!!!!! Jumping into the sea we were surprised to find the waves very strong, with a dangerous riptide underneath. The waves were really cool though, great fun for diving around in and renting bodyboards from the resort. Poor Kez was battered by the waves and had a lot of trouble standing up and keeping her bikini on! We all got thrown around by them, and at times it felt like a washing machine, as we got spun around under the water. Still have the scratches on my back from being thrown against the sand under the waves. Great fun though!

As we ordered food that night we bumped into Clive ("Colin, Colin, Colin") and Tania - the Land rover couple on an 18 month trip, who we'd first met in Bamako - what a small world eh! We swapped tales of where we'd been since and it was really nice to see them again. They had been at Green Turtle for six days, three more than planned because it was so nice. That night we had some really good food at the restaurant, fresh fish with chunky 'Bensons' chips, and ate on the beach-front tables with gas lanterns, with the waves crashing only feet away.

Could see ourselves staying here for a while if possible....